A good, old-fashioned dose of hippiedom

Peace and love from San Marcos, Guatemala, on the shore of beautiful Lake Atitlan.

We’re in a state of culture shock. Maybe it’s the vast amount of poverty in this lovely country (way more than Mexico). Maybe it’s the Mayan culture. Or maybe it’s just the hippies. Yeah, I think it’s probably the hippies.

When I researched coming to San Marcos La Laguna, I read that it’s a small, mixed community of ex-pats, indigenous Mayans and travelers seeking spiritual enlightenment. San Marcos is also a place for yoga seekers, truth seekers and seekers in general. There are many other small towns to explore on the shores around Lake Atitlan, but this one caught my interest, especially because it has so many yoga studios. I started taking yoga in Zihuatanejo, Mexico, then in Morelia, Mexico, and continued it in Antigua, Guatemala. I wanted to keep things going in San Marcos, where they have a place called The Yoga Forest up in the hills, as well as this gem in the central village.


To get to San Marcos La Laguna, we first took a 3-hour tourist shuttle from Antigua to Panajachel, then caught a public lancha (boat) for a 30-minute lake crossing. The VRBO we are renting has its own dock, and the captain said he would drop us there. Well, at least he nodded like he knew the place.

After a beautiful boat ride offering gorgeous views of the lake and the three volcanoes that jut up from its shores, El Capitan dropped us off at a dock near San Marcos. But after we got out, laboriously unloading all our gear (including three bags of groceries), it became clear it wasn’t the right dock. A Guatamelan about 20 years old, who worked at the house attached to that dock, tried to tell us we were in the wrong place, but we could “easily” get to our house, a mere four houses away … along a trail hugging the shore. He grabbed my big bag  (a rolly backpack) and the biggest grocery bag, and bolted down the tiny trail, which soon turned into a jungly trail. We followed, with Andy carrying his own rolly backpack, and each of us wearing our backpacks and toting groceries.

Navigating loose soil, muddy patches, rocks and overgrown vegetation (and parts of the trail that actually went through the shallows of the lake) wasn’t easy … for us. But this guy must have been a sherpa in a previous life, because after about 30 seconds, he was long gone. Completely out of sight! We both couldn’t help but think he was an opportunist who had seized the opportunity to run off with our bags. Goodbye to all of my clothes and a lot of food and provisions. In a bit, Andy started shouting, “Amigo! Amigo!” But we couldn’t see him anywhere. We didn’t know if he went up the hill to one of the houses we were passing, or continued along the trail (which at times we weren’t even sure was a trail anymore).

We stood there for a few minutes, befuddled. We inched ahead, confused. Then we saw a Mayan family on one of the docks, and they pointed ahead, letting us know that the young man was up around the bend. Indeed, from a better vantage point, Andy could make out the flourescent green of the reusable grocery bag we were using. But we were still a far ways away. So the half-mile jungle hike continued. And then we figured out why the young man had lit out like a champion sprinter. He wanted to put those bags down at our destination and then return and help us carry our other bags — which he did.

Here are two important lessons I learned: (1) Four houses away in Mayan culture is very different than four houses away in American suburbia, and (2)  I am way too old and too uncoordinated for jungly hikes.

Truth is, I am not a good hiker under any circumstances, so this excursion was very challenging indeed. Andy held my hand tightly to make sure I didn’t go down. And after the guy came back, he relieved me of my backpack, which helped make the remainder of the trek a little easier, although, for his part, Andy still was carrying  quite a load. Finally we reached the correct dock, where we met up with the man we were supposed to meet in the first place: Jesus!  (No, not the biblical dude, but the caretaker of our rented house).  Hey-Soos! Hoo-Ray!

We tipped and thanked the young man, and then our new man, Jesus, grabbed much of the luggage and bounded up the 55 stairs from the dock to our amazing VRBO rental. Andy, for his part, was still carrying quite a load. But we both made it up the winding stairs (a portion of which had been damaged in the Oaxaca earthquake a few months ago, and hastily repaired) and finally reached our destination. Paradise found.

If you ever want to stay at Lake Atitlan, I can’t recommend this house enough.  Check it out at this link: http://www.vrbo.com/640194?unitId=1187975

Here’s a great photo of the view from our living room. Those are the bases of two volcanoes in the background, and a stained-glass window in the foreground. With two comfy couches perfectly positioned to look out those huge windows, it’s my favorite part of the house.


This house has killer lake views from all angles, and it’s an easy 20-minute walk to the town of San Marcos. There are three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a huge kitchen and several things that we never have accessible to us, wherever we stay, in Mexico or Central America, especially in our long-term rentals: a bathtub, a clothes dryer and a dishwasher. And the kitchen is to die for! I’ve been cooking dinner every night. It’s stocked with marble countertops, an island, great utensils, extra spices and cooking ingredients … and a modern, six-burner, gas stove! The master bedroom is upstairs, with its own balcony (again with amazing views), and the bed has a thick, foam-top mattress.  We are in heaven. I really don’t want to leave this place!

This morning, shortly after we woke up, Andy decided to go jump in the lake. To play it safe, he wore a life vest and climbed down the ladder on our little wooden dock. He said it was cold, but he enjoyed it. I might have to join him before we leave on Tuesday.


After swimtime, we ate breakfast and drank amazingly rich Guatemalan coffee on our huge deck and watched the boats ferry people to the towns dotted around the lake. Then we walked into little San Marcos, taking the main road (dirt) from the top of our hillside property, after climbing up more steps (100 or so!) to get to our front gate. We didn’t see much along the way, just a few Guatemalans, all of them wishing us “buenas tardes,” even the two men carrying machetes. The landscape was super lush, and there were interesting flowers and plants everywhere. Another jungle path, pretty much, although this one was much easier to traverse (aside from the one huge mud pit created by some rain the previous night).

Once we got into town, we saw free-spirited, young (and more than a few old) hippies everywhere! White dudes with dreadlocks, battered sandals, tie-dyed clothing, colorful Mayan pants … the whole tofu enchilada (which is pretty much what we had for lunch; see below). It was almost like being at a Grateful Dead concert, sans the smell of reefer, although that’s apparently pretty easy to obtain, should one want to.

Many of you know we are from the Bay Area. As such, we are very used to seeing and interacting with free-spirited folks (some might even say I am one myself).  I lived in Berkeley, for crying out loud. I went to Antioch College in Ohio — home to everything hippie. Santa Cruz. The Haight. We are hip. But for some reason, the vibe in this small town surprised us.  Everywhere we looked, there were  signs for yoga classes, silent meditations, mushroom cultivating workshops, Reiki classes and many other spiritual enlightenment activities. There was a “sound bath” meditation class (Google it) and one property on which every structure was shaped like a pyramid. It was all pretty cool. The stores sold incense, homemade lip-balms, kambucha, homemade soaps and tons of patchouli thingees.


I don’t even know what emotional kinesiology is. Do you?


After walking around a bit, we had lunch at a great place called Moonfish Cafe. I had a yummy tofu scramble, and Andy had a falafel burrito along with some kick-ass coffee grown in the Atitlan region and roasted on-site. All of it was outstanding.

When we continued our walk after lunch, we saw yoga studios, massage studios, tons of Mayan clothing for sale, and we sauntered through some very cool pedestrian pathways with beautiful murals.  San Marcos has one actual street midway between the lake and the Mayan part of town, but mainly the village is patchwork of footpaths surrounded by shade-grown coffee, various other crops, jungle vegetation, fruit trees, and various fences and microbusinesses . Funky, colorful murals lined some of the pathways. Did I mention how lush everything is? Guatemala has got to be the most lush country we’ve ever visited. It puts Hawaii to shame.  Everywhere we look we see greenery.

SanMarcoslaneOn our walkabout, we went to a few small health food markets and natural stores. There are no large grocery stores in San Marcos, just small tiendas. We bought some fresh fruit and vegetables and a few staples items including eggs. Groceries are quite expensive here; a little cheaper in the bigger town (Panajachel) across the lake, but still not exactly cheap cheap.

Tonight I cooked up some fresh vegetable soup for dinner, along with some vegi-burgers purchased in Panajachel.  Andy’s listening to the World Series and reading Lonely Planet — and all is good. (P.S. The soup turned out great, but the vegi-burgers were yucky.)

In the next few days, we’ll check out some of the other towns surrounding the lake, all of them a bit less crunchy than San Marcos, but each with their own cool vibe apparently. Lake Atitlan is beautiful. We’re happy campers. Even thought we’re a bit far from the village, we’re enjoying the beauty of the lake and the peaceful surroundings. Yet another adventure.

(with a bit (stacey says a lot) of editing by Andy)


Out of my comfort zone in Guatemala

Yesterday I spent most of the day completely out of my comfort zone.

I’m glad I did.

Captain Andy and I decided to take a three-hour bus journey to a one of the largest craft markets in Central America. We left the house around 9:30 AM and boarded a bus know as a Guatemalan chicken bus. A chicken bus is an old U.S. newly retired school bus.  Once these buses have about 150,000 miles on em, they get tossed aside and purchased by other countries to live new lives.  You see chicken buses all over Guatemala. Most are colorfully painted and have interesting names.


We had been warned that traveling on chicken buses especially in Guatemala City was dangerous because gangs frequently target them and rob passengers.  But since we’re not in Guatemala City, I decided to give this method of transportation a chance. But to be uber safe, I left my purse, phone, and Kindle at home and just brought me.  Andy didn’t carry anything except some cash and his phone.

Over the course of six hours, my life passed in front of me perhaps 15 times. I can’t possibly describe the sheer panic I felt sitting on the bus. The drivers seem to have little regard for human life.  Playing chicken with cars, animals, and other buses must be in their genes!  While driving on tiny, windy mountain roads, we were slipping and sliding all over the place. They were taking corners so fast, I felt like I was sitting in a vat of Crisco!  I was hanging on to Andy for dear life.  And, to make matters worse, we were packed into the bus like sardines. Each seat barely accommodated two people, (remember the bus is used for transporting kids, not adults) but there were so many passengers, we had to sit three to a seat. On the way home, a very obese man had his gigantic tummy stuck in my face (I was repulsed) and there was a very drunk young man on the other side of me. I  thought he was going to hurl all over me. No joke. Not the typical first class bus experience we’re used to in Mexico!

Even at the cheap rate of $4 for a 6 hour trip ($2 each) we’ve decided to bag the chicken buses from now on.  We’re going to try traveling  via tourist shuttles instead. I wouldn’t mind being on the chicken bus for a very short journey,  but anything over 30 minutes is too long.  It was a journey we shall never forget.

A few comments about the market… it was fantastic!  What a feast for the eyes!  Many many women were dressed in traditional clothes and the colors of the fabrics in the market were just spectacular.

Andy brought a really nice woven hat.   I didn’t buy anything,  but I really enjoyed walking around. The harassment factor was high, with several women following us around, trying to give us the “hard sell”,  but we still had fun seeing everything.


Interestingly enough, I think some vendors were trying to misrepresent their merchandise because I saw a lot of clothes I see in Mexico being passed off as authentic Guatemalan clothes.  Ha!  I knew better. We were also told certain things were hand-made, but I’m pretty sure they were machine made.  With traditional embroidery, it’s often hard to tell.

Shabbat Shalom!

On Friday night, after watching an incredible bluegrass concert in the smallest bar I’ve ever been in, Andy and I went in search of dinner. All of the sudden,. we passed a very large looking building. We peered into the courtyard where we noticed a large photo of an old man with a beard. Could it be? No way!!!  Yes, it was!  It was the Rebbe!  We ran smack into the Antigua Chabad House!  All of the sudden, happy young travelers were waving us in.  For those of you who don’t know what Chabad is, it’s a Orthodox Jewish religious organization.  They provide social services to Jews from all religious denominations including community centers and camps.  They have Chabad houses all over the world and on many college campuses. Since it was Friday night, they had just started Shabbat and a spirited song fest had just begun.

There were about 18 young Israeli travelers there, no Americans and one person from Mexico City.  The young rabbi and his wife warmly welcomed us.

Shabbat dinner was fantastic!  We munched on fresh Challah, Israeli salads, vegetarian soup, and a main course of couscous, kosher chicken and kosher meatballs. Shots of rum appeared too!  There was tons of singing in Hebrew and everyone was super happy to be together.

I’ve celebrated Shabbat in many, many places in my life, but this was one of the lovelist Shabbats I have ever experienced.  I really want to go back next Friday night.

Housing probs

Two small housing problems in Antigua have plagued our visit.

  1. We had no water last night at all!  The management company came over this morning and fixed it. Perhaps they filled up a tank we can’t see?  Now we have water again.  I had enough water last night to do dishes so I’m not sure when it crapped out. I think about 9 PM.
  2. Our hot water barely works. I’m getting a warm shower each day, but certainly not hot.  But I’m getting used to it, and it’s bothering me less and less.
  3. We can’t get wifi downstairs, only upstairs, but this is a minor inconvienance.

Otherwise, everything in our house is good.

Green Acres is the place to be

On Saturday we went to a local urban farm located a 10 minute walk from our apartment.  They had an organic market we wanted to check out. It was such a cool place. It was really a large farm and they had live music playing. We toured the property and hung out with the sheeps, and chickens. I inhaled fresh lavendar and looked at the beautiful volcanos off in the distance. Then we read in their lovely yoga/chill space and enjoyed some fresh juice and some fresh ginger ale.  I’m hoping to return next Saturday or on Thursday night when they have live music. They have a large organic cafe located on the farm and the food looked incredible.

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Habla Espanol???

I can’t use chemo brain as an excuse any longer.  I’ve been done with chemo for almost two years.  I just have to admit that I have sh-t for brains.  I can’t seem to remember any Spanish verbs.  I study them,  I think I know them, and then they go out of my brain. It’s so frustrating!   I’m committed to studying Spanish, but it’s so bad!  I know a ton of words, but I can barely put a simple sentence together.  You’d think something would start to click by now. I’m taking classes two hours a day of instruction for the next week. My teacher speaks to me mostly in Spanish and while I think my comprehension isn’t too horrible, I can’t carry a conversation with her.  However, I refuse to be defeated!!!  I shall persevere.

con estoy yo si adios

See, I couldn’t even get that right!!!   Andy had to fix it.

Con ese, digo “Adios!”


Goodbye Mexico, hello Guatemala!

Greetings from Antigua, Guatemala. We arrived late last night after a wonderful, and very relaxing 10 day stay in Zihuatanejo. It was nice to see my mom and visit the beach. Now we’ll be on the road for the next 7 1/2 weeks, experiencing life in Guatemala and in Oaxaca, Mexico.  We’ll return to Zihuatanejo to start a four month stay on December 1.

Now we’re staying in a one-bedroom VRBO that’s a ten minute walk from the city center. It’s GIGANTIC.  It’s got a ton of classic colonial charm including beautiful colonial light fixtures, amazing Guatemalan tile work, and it even has a bathtub.  However, it’s not the place we booked, so this morning I contacted the management company and asked them why we had been put in a different apartment. The company explained that the apartment we had originally booked had recently experienced water damage, so they gave us another apartment. Late this afternoon, we were able to peek into the water damaged apartment and it’s much, much smaller than the castle we are currently living in.  Score one for the Ohr’s!   The apartment is a little rough around the edges, with scrapped walls,  some sewage odor from the toilet, and a bit of peeling paint,  but its bones are simply beautiful, so we are not complaining. The neighborhood seems very safe, too. And I’m excited to go to yoga class right across the street. Here are a few photos of this cool place. Notice how high the ceilings are, and how beautiful the tile work is?

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We arrived late last night and the property management company picked us up from the Guatemala City airport (for free) which was nice since we arrived on the late side.  Guatemala City is home to at least ten Golden Arches, a bunch of Taco Bells,  a few Denny’s thrown in for good measure, and a bunch of other American restaurants.


We were happy to see William when we arrived. He drove us to our apartment which was about a 45 minute ride.

This morning we started our day with coffee and a typical Guatemalan breakfast of fried plantains, eggs, beans, tortillas, and avocado.  I liked the black beans and fried plantains.

Then we went exploring.  Antigua is a very old colonial town, but it’s very, very touristy!  And prices are substantially higher than in Morelia. It’s not as expensive as the United States, but the prices seem quite high to us.  We are in sticker shock and we’re in gringo shock!

After breakfast, we went to a very good fruit and vegetable mercado and bought some peppers, (yellow or orange are my favorite), some grapes, tomatoes, an artichoke, bananas, avocados,  and two new fruits never seen before.


Then we walked to a large grocery store. The market was well-appointed, but I had to get used to many new products.  I wasn’t able to find my coveted hummus, but I was able to score some incredible tofu. They also had a good selection of cheese.  We spent about $85.00 total and I anticipate the food will last us about 10 days.

Now a bit more about this apartment…

Unfortunately, this particular VRBO unit did not provide much in the way of supplies.  No cleaning supplies, no spices, no dish soap, not even a sponge for washing dishes.  I will have to mention this in my on-line review at the end of our stay.  We ended up having to spend money on simple spices and on other assorted things. It’s a drag!  We try to closely watch our expenses, and we hate spending money on things that should be provided as a part of our rental.  It’s one of the downfalls of choosing to move around so much. This is also one reason I’m in favor of bunking at youth hostels. They seem to have really well-appointed kitchens with spices galore and pots and pans so we don’t end up having to spend as much at the grocery store. But two weeks in a youth hostel (even with a private room) is a lot of time for people as old as us!  It’s fine for a few nights, but I don’t think it would work long-term.

Over the next two weeks and I’m hoping to attend Spanish school for a few hours a day to improve my Spanish.  We’ll also take  few day trips. Then, after Antigua, we’re headed to Lake Atilan for a week.  After that, the ruins of Tikal are on the agenda and some other assorted travel in Guatemala. Then we’ll fly to Oaxoca.


This colonial town has a lot of nice churches.


Now that we are wandering for the next 7.5 weeks, I wanted to share a few thoughts I have on making a nomadic lifestyle work.  It’s been a steep learning curve, but I do feel like I have some good suggestions to share for those of you who are considering hitting the open road for more than a few weeks.

  1. I highly suggest booking properties through Airbnb or VRBO that have more than one apartment unit on-site.  The more apartments the better.  I think multi-unit apartments are safer, (because others are generally around) and because they almost always have staff around to assist you if you run into problems. But even more importantly, when your apartment is lacking something like a bathmat, or kitchen towels and hand towels or even frying pans, you simply contact the property management company and they will borrow stuff from other apartments. Today we were missing all of the above, and I found the on-site housekeeper who quickly went into another unit and got us everything we needed.  This is the second time we’ve stayed in a multi-unit establishment, and the same thing happened then.
  2. If you are moving around a lot, you won’t be able to take a lot of things with you, so the things you do take with you must serve multiple purposes. One thing we really have found useful is two small, yet highly portable bluetooth speakers. We can easily move them from room to room and we like taking them to the beach too.  We just added an echo dot into the mix and so far, so good.
  3. We haven’t perfected the art of  traveling with so many electronic cords yet…but we’re working on it. Traveling with so many multiple cords for all of our electronics is a bit of a drag, but manageable. I think we may eventually invest in a charging unit like this one.  It probably would come in handy.chargingtetacle




4. I’m finding that I still have to make hard decisions about what to take and what to leave behind. I thought it would become easier, but it’s not.  For example, I packed an electronic scale to weight and measure food because I’m watching my weight. I also travel with a set of measuring cups, and spoons.  It’s kind of a drag traveling with them because they take up a tiny bit of space. And in order to find space for them I had to take one less pair of shoes. And sadly, I only took about five pairs of earrings instead of my usual 20 plus???  It’s not a big deal, but something had to give!!!

For this particular trip, I really downsized my wardrobe  collection.  I didn’t bring as many dressy clothes. I don’t think I will need them in Guatemala or in Oaxaca.

I’ll write again after we’ve explored Antigua a bit more.

Ciao for now.


Goodbye Morelia- Hello New World!

Puebla, Mexico is a truly a fun and beautiful city.  We just returned from a three night jaunt.  It’s about six hours from Morelia, and we traveled by first class bus.

We traveled a little bit throughout the summer with family and a few friends, but Puebla was our first time away with just the two of us and it was super fun. We rented an Airbnb 1/2 a block off the main square and we spent the weekend watching a professional baseball game, enjoying some cafes,  meandering all over their amazing markets and admiring the beautiful tile work on the buildings.  One day we walked about 16,000 steps which made me very happy!

Here are a few photos for you to enjoy!

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As luck would have it, the city is all decorated for Mexican Independence day coming up on September 16. It was stunning.

Time to Say Goodbye!

 Now it’s almost time to say goodbye to Morelia, Mexico. We have 18 more days left on our four-month lease.  We’re sad to be leaving this wonderful city. Morelia was simply magical and we want to come back next summer — that is until something else catches our fancy, which just might happen.  We met some really nice people, and we loved the free cultural events throughout the city.

Do we need a home base?

This begs a big question. Do we need a home base or can we just keep bouncing around Mexico and perhaps even the world?  Will we tire of this  semi-nomadic lifestyle? Will we long for more permanent roots?

Truthfully, I don’t think either of us knows the answer to this yet. And we’re having a blast trying to figure it out.  We definitely don’t see any urgency in finding a place to live and in staying in just one place.  We kinda figured that by seeing as much of Mexico as possible, we’d eventually find a place to settle down, but after 15 months of living here, I still feel like we’re far away from this happening.  There are just too many places in Mexico we still want to check out.  We haven’t been to the Chiapas, or to Oaxoca, or even to Zacatecas.  But I do know one thing.  We’ve ruled out living in Zihuatanejo full-time. (sorry, mom).  1) It’s way too hot in the summer.  2) It’s too small and there’s not enough going on to keep us engaged and energized.

Before moving, I used to think that I could never live anywhere besides a beach community.  I saw myself lounging on the beach in my retirement, reading under a coconut tree,  cool beverage in-hand.  Now I’m not sure that’s what I want any longer.  I’m thinking we’d be happier in a larger city with access to more cultural activities. Beach communities don’t really have this.  Also, we are both finding a strong appeal in living in less touristy cities, so places like Lake Chapala or San Miguel de Allende are not very appealing to us. And we both agree, we want to live in a city with a small, rather than a large ex-pat community.  While we haven’t ruled out living in a beach setting, it’s starting to seem less important.


I really love the beach, but I also like colonial cities.

For now, we really have the best of both worlds.  We can live at the beach  in the winter and we can migrate to the big city when we tire of the beach.



And now… I’m pleased to announce our new travel plans.

October 1-10- Partying in Zihuatanejo, Mexico
Dear old mom isn’t coming to Zihuatanejo until October 7 so her lovely three-bedroom condo overlooking the Bay of Zihuatanejo is sitting empty.  Score one for the Ohr’s!!!  As it turns out, we need to go back to Zihuatanejo anyway (4 hours) to drop off our stuff because we’ve decided to hit the open road in October and November.  We’ll spend 10 days in Zihuatanejo just chilling,  going to the beach and just enjoying the beauty of the Bay from my mom’s patio.  We’ll also get to spend a few days with my mom when she arrives in Zihuatanejo on October 7.

October 10-24- Antigua, Guatemala

I’ve always wanted to go to Guatemala and now seems like the perfect time to visit.  The weather is supposed to be nice, it’s low- season and there is a lot of natural beauty to be explored. We’ve rented a nice one-bedroom apartment via VRBO.  You can see it here.

October 24- November 14- Guatemala.

We want to visit several towns in Lake Aitilan, go to language school in one of the bigger cities, and explore some of its natural wonders.  We plan on visiting two lake communities with one of them being San Marcos.  Our plan is to stay on the lake at another VRBO.  You can see it here.

After the lake district, we may do a family home-stay in Guatemala to really focus on improving our Spanish.  It’s really needed.  I’m not seeing very much improvement in my Spanish, but Andy’s is really coming along. I never made it to Spanish school in Morelia and I really want to study more.

November 14-  Oaxaca, Mexico.

We plan on being in Oaxaca for 17 days. We’ll start our trip in Oaxaca City and perhaps travel to the coast. We’re still working on travel plans.  Now because of the earthquake, we’re not sure which parts of Oaxaca we will be able to travel to.

December -March- Zihuatanejo 

For four glorious months of beach living and fun times with mom.

As usual, casa Stacey and Andy is now accepting reservations for Zihuatanejo, but I suggest you book now because it gets very busy.  We’re running a first-come, first-serve policy.

Adios from Morelia.




Advice from dear old mom

My mom just left after visiting us in Morelia with her BFF. They were here for 10 days. We all had the BEST time. We got to visit some new, amazing Pueblo Magicos and we went to Patzcuaro for two nights.  They were easy traveling companions, and  adventurous to boot.


We did some Mezcal tasting in Patzcuaro.

I miss them  already. But at least I know I’ll get to spend four months with my mom when our stint in Zihuatanejo begins on December 1.  I can’t believe we have just one more month in Morelia.  It’s gone by so fast!  We remain enthralled with this city and I know we will be back.  As far as I’m concerned, the sooner, the better!


We still don’t have any firm plans for October and November. We’ve been talking about going to Oaxaca in October and Guatemala in November, but we haven’t found the time to plan our trip.  Time is running out. We need to get our butts in gear.

While dear old mom was visiting us, she mentioned that my blog has turned into a lot of personal musings and not enough musings about Mexico.  I think she has a good point, and since mothers always know best, I decided to focus this post on something more Mexican-y.

Last Saturday night we went to one of the fanciest restaurants in Morelia.  It’s called Frida Kahlo and it’s one of the most stunning restaurants I have ever been in.
I think it’s a chain and there is one other location near Cancun.  Of course, it’s dedicated to the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and her image is everywhere in the restaurant. It’s just stunning.frida-khalo-restaurante1restaurante-frida-kahlo-morelia-michoacan3

Mexicans have a wonderful sense of aesthetics. They use colors in amazing ways and everything just pops. Andy and I have walked past this restaurant many times, and I have always been captivated by its design. We knew it would be pricey, and perfect to impress company, so we decided my mom’s visit would be a good time to go. We also read some reviews on TripAdvisor, none great, but I figured the atmosphere would make up for bad food.

Let me just say that atmosphere did not disappoint.

frida-khalo-restaurante2The interior was stunning. And, service was crazy good. Really exceptional.  In fact, it was white glove service (our waiter had on white gloves) and everyone was impressed.

Now for the food.  It was awful.  We had a bad salmon starter, Andy had a bland, flat, tasteless chicken dish and I had marlin (a type of fish) tacos al pastor. Even I, a life-long member of the “big eaters” club didn’t finish my meal.  In true mom meat eating spirit she ordered tongue meatballs.  Really, she did! She said they were “tongue-y”.  I don’t remember what my mom’s friend Ellen had.  We finished our meals all feeling quite dejected.

At the end of our completely underwhelming dining experience,  the waiter came to our table and said, “as our guest, we would like to invite you to our private dining room to experience gastro mapping.”

Wait….things might be looking up for the evening. I’ve never been invited to gastro mapping. Have you?

We were led to a private room where we sat down at a table for six.


The show is about to start. We are all so excited!

The table had nice white plates on it and a simple white tablecloth underneath.

Then the show started!  

We looked down at the white tablecloth and magical shapes and images started appearing, all perfectly timed to music!  It was our own, private psychedelic light show!


We got to learn a bit about Frida Khalo.



While we have seen mapping done on the main cathedral in Morelia, we have never seen it done on a table at a restaurant and it was a real treat.   It was one of the best four minutes we’ve ever spent in Mexico.


You MUST take a minute to look at the gastro mapping video produced by Frida Khalo restaurant.  We left the restaurant in high spirits, not remembering the bad food or high prices. It turned out to be a really nice evening.




A vanishing act and then a return


Welcome to a great city!

15 months ago I disappeared. I left the San Francisco Bay Area to start a new life in Mexico. Since my disappearance, I’ve completely morphed into someone totally new.  I’ve replaced myself with someone I barely recognize. Most of the time, I like her, but sometimes she bugs the hell out of me.

The old me was a stressed out non-profit executive director who worked 45-50 hours a week. I thought about fundraising all of the time.  I worried about how we would keep up with the Joneses and our fancy (but not excessive) San Francisco Bay Area lifestyle.  On the weekends, I drank $5.50 pints of craft beer, I read.  I searched out inexpensive Korean meals from trendy Bay Area restaurants.  It wasn’t a bad life. I was happy.  But I yearned for more.

It’s so weird, but I’m someone else now.  Maybe it’s related to my cancer diagnosis, maybe it’s not.

I don’t recognize the “before Mexico” me anymore. That driven, super hard-worker has vanished.  She’s so murky.

Who is this new me?

The new me is happier with less. The new me is thrilled  to have 5-10 hours of steady work.  The new me is thriving in Mexico and loving it.


But sometimes the new me feels a bit bored and a bit restless.  I’m not really quite complete yet.

The new me seems to be lacking a sense of purpose. The new me doesn’t have activities to fill-up each day.  Why isn’t the new me taking private Spanish lessons a few times a week?  Why isn’t the new me doing some volunteer work?  Why can’t the new me just be a chilled out version of the old me?

Some days I accomplish absolutely nothing and it doesn’t feel very good.

I understand why experts say you need a retirement plan, something to fill your days and nights. Otherwise, you just simply exist.

Now don’t get me wrong, I don’t want to trade this experience for how things used to be. I can’t imagine spending my days in meetings, working with board members, and writing grant proposals. I much prefer sitting on the Morelia main square people or the Zihuatanejo beach.  But still,  I really do think I need a bit more to fill my days.  I want me to find its way home.

I might return!

This past week, I was contacted by someone who wants to build a non-profit to serve kids in Uganda, Africa. His first goal will be to build a school to serve 400 very poor children. He’s asked me to help get his non-profit up and running.  He’s hired me to help him develop a mission and vision statement. I will also help him develop a website and begin to seek out individual and corporate donations.  The work sounds engaging and right up my alley and it’s about 5 hours a week. This, in addition to the  non-profit consulting work I’m already doing,  should help solidify the new me in some really cool ways.

I think I’m getting closer to getting this retirement thing down.

I’m interested in hearing from others folks who haven’t quite fully evolved yet.  If you have a story of your own personal evolution to share, leave it in the comment section below.



Those pesky parasites

Ten days ago, Andy and I were talking about where we should go for the months of October and November. Should we stay in Mexico or head down to Belize? Maybe it’ll be time to visit Nicaragua or Guatemala.

Within a few days, the conversation had changed.

Suddenly I was talking to Andy about moving back to Oakland. About where we’d live since our house is being rented. About whether our part-time income would be able to support us in the expensive Bay Area. Suddenly the topics in my head were not pleasant ones: Spending the next four months undergoing chemotherapy for a recurrence of my ovarian cancer. Shopping for funky hats to hide my baldness. Filling prescriptions at the Kaiser pharmacy and visiting the local cannabis dispensary (has the first legal store opened yet?) to control chemo-induced nausea.

I wasn’t at surprised by the abrupt change in our conversation. Statistics don’t lie. Seventy to 80 percent of people with my stage and type of ovarian cancer get it again (and then again), with most first-time recurrences at around the 18-month mark. Only 46 percent of us survive five years after being disgnosed. I’ve already been cancer-free for almost 27 months. Much luckier than so many.

But had my luck run out?

Some abdominal symptoms started abruptly. I had an upset stomach followed by days of nausea, constipation and loss of appetite. I was also very tired. Many of these are symptoms of an ovaraian cancer recurrence, so I was concerned, needless to say. But at the same time, Andy was having a few similar symptoms. He had toughed his way through a 24-hour food poisoning bug the week before, and he too was constipated. But he still had an appetite and no nausea, and, unlike me, he was getting better.

After days of hoping I’d magically get better too, I reached out to my Mexican oncologist, Dr. Miguel Flores, and asked to be seen. He didn’t waste any time, agreeing to see me in his office the next day (a Saturday); he also had me take a series of blood tests, including the CA 125, a test for my ovarian cancer marker. Although cancer was a concern, the doctor (and I) both thought it was just a parasite or some such intenstinal woe. A disgusting worm wreaking havoc on my digestive system. Sure, but it could be something else, too. Just to be on the safe side, the doctor set me up with a prescription parasite killer and prescribed one for Andy, too, since he was having some stomach issues.

I couldn’t help it. I turned the conversations to, “Should we move back into our house in Oakland?” “Should we rent an apartment just outside of the Bay Area, Davis maybe, so we could keep the rent money rolling in?” Maybe we could stay with Andy’s mom in San Jose until we figure out our next move.

My reality is this. Every twinge, every muscle ache, every upset stomach is a constant reminder of a potential cellular party I don’t want to be part of. I try very hard to keep it all in check. On many days I’m able to distance myself from what was.  And some days, (especially recently) I wallow.  I read Inspire.com, (the ovarian cancer board) over and over.  I search the internet for the latest ovarian cancer clinical trials and I read about new drugs that will magically push other women past the 5 year mark.

I was sad. And anxious. But I kept focusing on the fact that at least I got all this time — 27 months — without batteries of tests, without surgery, without chemo. Without cancer. It’s been more than two years in which I’ve been able to spend amazing times with friends and famly. Time that I got to enjoy several different cities in Mexico, and Japan, and South Korea, and a two-week cruise from Yokohama to Vancouver, and a road trip from there down to Oakland, seeing friends along the way. And to be with the man I loved. Time that has meant the world to me, and time that could not be taken away.

While I was in my scared mode, I spent a lot of time in wallow mode reading depressing cancer statistics. This did not improve my outlook or my mood, but it did help me cope. I was contemplative and quiet, a rarity for me. I shared the news with my immediate family. I told them I thought my cancer might be back.

Today I got my CA 125 test back from the lab. It was a low number and that’s great news.  In the next few days I’l l get a CT scan just to make sure, but having a low CA 125 is a great indicator that the cancer hasn’t yet returned.

I think Guatemala sounds perfect for November, don’t you?