Getting naked with a bunch of new friends

In Takayama, Japan, I got naked with dozens of strangers and rather liked it. Walking around naked in front of 50 or 60 other ladies took a little bit of getting used to, but I bared my butt with no buts about it.

I’m pretty much a nudist at heart. I really enjoy being naked, although I am definitely not an exhibitionist.  I’m just a girl from Michigan who grew up going to overnight summer camp and who learned early on not to be ashamed changing in front of others.  And while walking around naked in front of a ton of strangers took a bit of getting used to, it was manageable. Andy went to the men’s side (the two sides are completely separate) and enjoyed his first onsen experience, too.

In Japan, the culture of communal bathing is huge. Many homes don’t have the space for bathtubs, so a big part of Japanese culture is to go to a local communal bath for a dip. People don’t consider this strange at all. It’s something parents do with kids and it’s something Japanese people do with same-sex friends as a way to relax.


Outside the hotel’s front door — a foot onsen!

Onsens are traditional spring-fed baths in many Japanese locations. Japan has over 2,300 hot springs, each with its own healing properties. Many onsens are located in rural river towns, often high in the mountains and fed by springs or fresh water diverted from rivers and streams, but some are in cities, as well.  Some onsens are fancy, others simple, and from what I’ve experienced and read about, the facilities are immaculate, clean and not one iota scuzzy or in disrepair.

We’re going to be visiting several onsens while in Japan because I love me a good bath.  In fact, I can’t wait to visit this kitschy place in Osaka called spa world. Take a look at the English translations. It’s the Raging Waters/Disneyland of the spa/bath experience, and I can’t wait to go — though it’s not at all the norm, nor not at all what a true onsen experience is all about.

At our hostel in Takayama, a fellow guest told us about a great onsen a 10-15-minute walk away, so we went to check it out.  It was located on the bottom floor of a very fancy hotel called the Green Hotel.  It was fun to see so many hotel guests (foreign and Japanese) walking around the hotel in traditional Japanese robes. Several guests were dining in them, and seeing the Western guests and Japanese guests mix in this way was cool. Anyway, at the hotel, for a grand total of $10 per person, non-guests could use their public onsen, and because the weather had been so rainy and cold, we decide to partake.


This was the women’s indoor bath. It had a beautiful wooden ceiling.

So how does this communal bathing thing work? Thanks to YouTube, I had an idea. There are tons of  videos designed to help foreigners learn proper onsen etiquitte. For example, never take your towel into the onsen with you. Big no-no. And do not go into the onsen without throughly scrubbing one’s self. No jumping into onsen, either. OK, I get it. Thanks, YouTube.

In addition, the Japanese have created helpful posters for dumbfounded tourists.



More onsen deets …

Step 1: Undress at the lockers, then find the area of the personal cleansing stations. Look for the small wooden buckets and the wooden benches.

Step 2: Nestle your butt onto one of the wooden benches and fill up a small wooden bucket.  Toss the warm water over your head to get wet. Do this as many times as you want. I’d safely say I used 15 buckets to get wet because it felt so damn good.

Step 3: Soap up. Wash yourself like you have never washed yourself before using the provided bath products, which include soaps and shampoos. Now, let me just say a word about Japanese bath products. They freakin’ rock!  Every hotel we have stayed at provides high-quality shampoo, conditioner and body wash. Really high quality. It’s like nothing I’ve experienced at American hotels or European hotels.

(Quick aside:  The hotel where we are staying now (in Kanazawa) provides huge bottles of shampoo, body wash and conditioner in the shower AND not one but two sets of small travel sizes to take with you. And they provide free hair brushes, sewing kits, razors, toothbrushes, Q-tips, bubble bath and two sets of slippers, one for the hotel and another set to take with you if you want to.)

But I digress. My main point was that this particular onsen had great products to use for cleaning your body from head to toe.  I watched a lot of Japanese women happily scrubbing away with no embarrassment whatsoever, so I did too.

Step 4: Head for the communal baths. This particular onsen had a large indoor communal tub divided into two sides, one with bubbles and one without, each set for about 101 degrees and each easily fitting 25 people. They also had a beautiful outdoor pool carved into a rock garden and surrounded by trees, vegetation and stone artwork; the pool was irregularly shaped to create little alcoves of privacy, and there was also a small waterfall (of course). This large pool was also hot, but not as hot as the nearby “hot tub” — sort of the standard Marin-county variety, made of wood and shaped like a gigantic wine barrel, again surrounded by the rock garden, the waterfall, the trees, etc. Some onsens have indoor tubs only, but many have outdoor tubs, too. Time to submerge, relax, try not to get too hot and enjoy. If you do get too hot, there is a standard shower nearby for a quick, cooling rinse-off.


The outdoor onesen was stunning. It faced a lovely waterfall and rock garden.

Step 5: After you’ve had enough of the baths, sit back down on the wooden stool and rinse off. Each station also had a hand-held shower nozzle to help with the job.

Step 6: Walk back to the locker room area and grab your towel and/or robe, and go to fancy “get-ready area.” Use the hairdryer, facial emulsifier, various lotions and sprays, Q-tips, sterilized hairbrushes and other nifty stuff they provide. Remember, this was all for just $10!

Step 6: Go to back to your hotel and fall into a relaxing sleep. (Although in our case we happened upon an amazing, Oakland/Portland-style coffee shop on the way back and settled onto to the couch for a siphon-coffee nightcap.)

In our upcoming travels — we still have about 20 more days in Japan! — we’re going to visit three different but very traditional Japanese inns, which are known as ryokans.  I’ll blog about them, too. All of them have onsens on-site, with both private and public tub areas. I can’t wait.


Life’s a bowl of cherry blossoms

Greetings from Nagoya Japan!  Nagoya is a huge city in Japan with a population of 2 million. It’s also home to the Nagoya Castle.

If i had to describe how my brain feels right now, I’d say it feels like a gigantic pillow of wet cotton candy!  The cherry blossoms we’ve seen so far have been awe-inspiring.  I hope you enjoy some of these photos from Kyoto. We enjoyed Kyoto so much, despite the weather.  It rained pretty much every day and we were very wet.

Kyoto is great city. I’ve heard it has 1800 shrines and temples within the city proper. Everywhere we went, we were rewarded with views of old wooden buildings, beautiful Buddhist temples, and spectacular Japanese gardens. They also have lovely Japanese temples. Then there were the cherry blossoms, the real reason we’re in Japan undertaking this awe-inspiring journey.  They dot so many Japanese cities.
bloosoms1Pink petals and pink powder puffs a-plenty greet us at each turn. Magical!

Sakura (cherry blossom) season is a very important part of Japanese culture.  Japanese people treasure this time of year and they are out in full-force enjoying the blossoms everywhere.

They bring food (or go to food carts) and then picnic with their friends underneath the cherry trees. it’s a lovely sight to see them enjoying their natural treasures.  


These people were spotted at Nagoya Castle

We’ve done a lot of sightseeing since we arrived.  I brought my fit
bit with me and we are walking between 7-9 miles most days. At the end of the day my feet and legs are very sore, so are Andy’s but it’s worth it.

While in Kyoto, we stayed in an Airbnb studio apartment in the Gion district. While the location was fantastic, the one-room studio was very, very cramped and had absolutely no charm.  We made it work, but it wasn’t ideal. We had to climb two very steep flights of stairs to the second floor, and once we entered the cramped studio, there are no pictures or artwork on the walls and it was such a drab place.


This is down by the river at night in Kyoto-Magical!

In fact, the bathroom was so small, only one of us fit at a time.

Morning Coffee

Each morning  have some coffee at a local cafe and then Andy scouts out our plans. Together we decide what attractions we want to see, and then he plots our route.  For those of you who might not know, I have the WORST sense of direction of anyone you’ll ever meet. I am always lost and have no internal sense of how to get from one place to another. So this job falls to Andy.  After 23 years of living with this, he’s very good-natured about this great shortcoming of mine.

So far he’s been a great traveling companion!  It’s nice that we get along so well.  I know that every relationship needs someone to lead and someone to follow and I think this is one thing that makes us successful traveling companions. I don’t want to be the leader and I can happily concede this task to Andy-San for the rest of our trip!

After some coffee, we begin our cherry blossom journey.  In Kyoto we had to flight huge crowds everywhere we went because Kyoto was jam-packed with tourists, especially Israelis. We met a lot of cool people from Israel!  There were people taking photos of cherry blossoms everywhere.  Also a lot of Japanese women rented kimonos and wore them throughout Kyoto and that was really a beautiful site to see.

cherrybloosomA few days ago we went to see a Japanese baseball game. Andy loves baseball.  Did you know that he used to be a baseball writer?  So far we’ve seen one game in Korea and we’re slated to see two more games in Japan. Japanese and Korean baseball fans are crazy loud!  There is not much talking or passive sitting. The fans are very engaged in the game. They clap and cheer pretty much non-stop and hit noisemakers called thundersticks together. They also eat and eat and eat. Soba, ramen, fried octopus balls, popcorn and even bento boxes. The stadiums we’ve seen have very large selections of food, much larger selections than they do in the United States, and everything is reasonably priced. No $10 beers like where the San Francisco Giants play. And they have sake, delivered by lovely sake girls carrying sake barrels on their backs.  I tossed one back.

Another highlight of our trip has been a traditional tofu (tasting menu) dinner we did. I’m so bummed that none of my photos came out. Each of the courses was amazingly prepared, all served on unique pottery,  I do realize that not everyone likes tofu, but Kyoto is famous for its tofu because the water is supposed to make it taste great. The prices for both of us was $106 and it was really worth it. Even Andy came away impressed by the service, the uniqueness of the presentation and the beauty of the meal. Most meals are not costing us anything close to that. I’ll write another blog post about costs,  but overall, food prices are reasonable. Not as cheap as a $1 quesadilla we get in Zihuatanejo, (lol) but decently priced by San Francisco standards. Tonight for dinner we spent $32.00 for us both.

Today we took the bullet train to Nagoya. It went 200 miles an hour!  It was so awesome. We reserved a seat yesterday, and it took us 32 minutes from Kyoto. We could see far in the distance fine, but it seeing things close up was much harder due to the trains speed.

Tomorrow we’re going to go to the place in Japan where they make plastic food models! Plastic models of food are very, very popular in Japan!  A lot of restaurants have plastic food models outside their restaurant windows.  This is a primary way Andy and i know what the restaurant serves.


I’m excited to visit the factories that make all this plastic food!

Sometimes we take pictures of the plastic food in the window, and then show the picture to the waitstaff so they know what we want to eat.  We’ll have to use this method to eat much more often when we get to cities where they speak less English.

After we see the plastic food factories, we will head to Takayama where they have a very famous cherry blossom festival. We will there for three nights. I’m pretty sure we’re going to miss the cherry bloosoms in Takayama because according to all weather reports, they haven’t even started to bloom yet. This is really too bad, but we knew this might happen when we booked this trip. We’ve been blessed to see them in Kyoto in full bloom–and to see some in Seoul. Maybe we’ll be lucky again. I’ll keep you posted.

More news later about this epic adventure.  I have so much more I want to tell you about how interesting Japan is and how much fun it has been to share this adventure with Andy, but I’m going to take a bath now!!!!   As many of you know, our place in Mexico doesn’t have a bathtub and I love baths. And our hotel room came with a really great amenity kit and I’m excited to put it to good use.

It pains me to sign off without sharing more about Japan but I’ll save some fun facts for another posting.



Feeling Seoul-ful

Greetings from Seoul, Korea!

If you are a faithful reader, you know this blog focuses on our adventures living and traveling in Mexico. But for the next five-plus weeks, Andy and I are in South Korea and Japan. Right now, we’re in our aLoft hotel room in the heart of Seoul (Myeong-dong), chilling out to some music while we wait for our laundry to dry. If you prefer to only read about Mexican-based activities, I take no offense. I’ll be back rapping about Mexico starting June 1, when we put our roots down in Morelia for four months.

First let me start with some good news. Last week, while in Oakland, I had some blood work and saw my U.S.-based oncologist, Dr. Liz Han, who reported that my cancer is still in remission! Words can’t possibly describe the relief Andy and I felt. We boarded the plane to Seoul two very happy campers.

Why Asia? Well, I’ve always wanted to do an epic cherry blossom journey through Japan. I really love ’em. I think they’re beautiful. But both times I previously visited Japan, it was outside of the prime cherry blossom window. Plus, Andy wasn’t with me.

Thus, this trip, which consists of six days in Seoul, one full month in Japan and then a two-week repositioning cruise from Yokahama to Vancouver. We’ll see friends in Vancouver, take a train to Seattle and drive back to Oakland, visiting friends and Andy’s sister in Astoria, Oregon, along the way. We’re set to fly back to Mexico in late May and move into our new digs in Morelia on June 1.

Being in Seoul is a bit of a fluke. We wanted to use frequent flier miles to go to Japan, but everything was booked. So we ended up in business-class to Seoul (12 hours from SFO) and on Friday (tomorrow) we’re taking a short flight from here to Osaka to begin the Japan portion of our journey.

Fate has smiled upon us, as Seoul is amazing and has become one of our favorite world-class cities.

  1. The subway system is fantastic. It goes everywhere and it’s cheap. An average ride seems to cost around 20 cents.
  2. A lot of people speak English, and most signage also uses English letters to spell out the Korean words. This is especially helpful on the subway, which also announces its stops in English.
  3. The shopping is inexpensive. There are tons of street markets, and alleyway after alleyway lined with shops of all kinds. And even high-end designer items are available for less than one would pay in the United States.
  4. The city is an amazing mix of old temples and modern architecture, ancient traditions and cosmopolitan culture, with lots of nature in the midst of it all and mountains all around.
  5. The food is great. Andy and I love Korean food. Ever heard of banchan?

Banchan are Korean small dishes served before the meal, and along with it. Usually they are various forms of vegetables, either steamed or pickled, but sometimes the offerings are fish cake, tofu, noodles. Last night we went to a hole-in-the-wall, all-you-can-eat banchan restaurant and loved it. All these small plates tasted great. They had brocoli with sesame oil, fish cake, tofu with a spicy red sauce, and cucumbers with a red paste. They also had tiny black beans. And whenver we finished one, another one replaced it. Yummy!


Here are some things we have done while in Seoul.

  1.  We walked and walked and walked. One day we walked almost 10 miles. Sore feet forced us to reel it in a little the next day.
  2. We saw cherry blossoms. The weather has been a bit on the cold side, and while sometimes the blossoms do explode into their glory at this time of year, nature has had a different plan this season. I think the full bloom is still a few days away, but we did see some lovely early bloomers, and we’re anticipating being in many places in Japan for peak viewing.
  3. I got two new pairs of glasses. Koreans are eyeglass crazy. Glass stores are everywhere, especially in the many underground shopping plazas, and they cost much less than one would pay in U.S.  I was soooo excited. I’ve had my current pair for more than three years and they don’t have transition lenses. It’s a hassle keeping track of my sunglasses in Mexico, so having a good pair of transition lenses wil be great.
  4. We drank a decent amount of coffee. We love coffeehouses and enjoy spending time in them, either reading or surfing the net on our phones (and maybe even talking a bit). Believe it or not, Seoul has more coffee cafes than San Francisco, and many of them are committed to crafting high-end, Portland-caliber coffee. On every block there are at least three or four shops, and many of them serve cold-brew or even nitro (my favorite). By the way, while we did visit at least one coffee cafe per day, it’s not as if we whiled away the hours (or even half-hours) there; there was too much to see and do!
  5. Went to see some traditional Korean temples. And a bunch of diverse neighborhoods, from a swanky street in Gangham (“Gangham Style”!) to a hip area around a college to a bunch of back alleys lined with pubs and restaurants. And we visited Korea’s largest market. It was filled with clothing and tons of great accessories stores. Did I mention the eyeglasses? They have some frames for as cheap as $10.00.  I may pick me up a few more spare pairs and get the lenses filled at a later date.
  6. Went to a professional baseball game, along with a 26,000 other fans (a sellout) on Sunday afternoon. It was very loud, as the fans are a part of the game at every level. They spent most of the game singing various cheer-songs and banging together thundersticks. Andy promised to get me a pair when we attend the Hanshin Tigers vs. the Tokyo Giants next week. Sweet!

Tomorrow we’re off to Kyoto for five nights. We’re staying at an airBnb, a studio room that’s apparently tiny, but it’s in the amazing Gion district, and since good fortune has smiled upon us and it will be the peak of cherry blossom season while we’re there, we are happy to have nailed down this reservation before the forecast was made. Prices are now sky-high, and that’s even if you can find anything. The entire city is about 98 percent booked.

I’ll post from Kyoto next. We’re excited about the amazing sites there, the history, the cherry blossoms, the nature, eating tempura and tofu and green-tea noodles, and we’ll even be attending a first-night Passover seder at Chabad of Kyoto.

As for Seoul, if you ever have the opportunity to visit, jump on it. It’s clean, friendly and they have a fantastic mix of modernity (from buildings to culture to technology) with the feel and taste of old-style Asia. More soon!


It’s time to do some tripping!

Hello peeps,

I think I promised that my next blog would be an FAQ and it would answer reader questions about travel, travel in Mexico, ovarian cancer or anything else on your mind. Unfortunately, my plea for questions didn’t go so well, but a HUGE shoutout goes to some family members who refused to leave me hanging and who submitted questions.  I am going to defer the FAQ blog in hopes of getting more questions from you.  Please  submit questions about 1) Travel in Mexico, 2) Travel in general  3) Anything to do with cancer 4) Other questions you have been dying to ask.  I promise to answer them.

But right now… it’s 7:56 AM and I’m up early…a rare occasion for me.  I couldn’t sleep.

Today is the big day! We’re leaving on our seven-week trip to Korea and Japan. I am going to try to blog several times while we are gone to keep you updated about our trip and to share some photos of our cherry blossom hunt.


If you are only interested in reading about our Mexico travels, don’t worry. I’ll be back blogging about Mexico starting June 1 direct from Morelia, Mexico, the greatest city you’ve never heard of.

We were only in the San Francisco Bay Area for three days, but they were busy ones.  Poor Andy.  Last night he told me that he was starting to get sick and when he utters these words, disaster always strikes!  Unfortunately, he’s never wrong. He woke up this morning and used the hotel coffee pot to get some steam into him before the flight.


While in the Bay Area, I had my three-month check-up with my U.S-based oncologist, the amazing Dr. Liz Han. Even though I had been feeling fairly good in Mexico, for the past four or five days, I had been experiencing weird abdominal pain, lower back pain, and a tiny bit of nausea. Oh boy!  These are all warning signs of an ovarian cancer recurrence, so I was dreading seeing her. Thankfully, my test results were great and we’re both so relieved.  Being a cancer survivor and managing the emotional side of cancer is a real bitch!  I really try to not let my imagination run away with me, but every ache and pain is a reminder of my precarious health.

So we’re off to the airport soon. We’re flying business class on Asiana airlines. I’ll lift a glass of champagne, and reflect on how blessed we are to be able to take this awesome journey. Thank you for sharing it with us.


This is all I am taking for four weeks. Packing cubes (and friends) helped me curtail my clothes obsession. We are also bringing a big duffel for the cruise. Once we land in Japan, we will use a luggage forwarding service to send it to our final hotel. We won’t have to tote it around for a month.

I guess I’m a nomad!

Hello faithful readers of BeleiveitOhrNot. I’m sorry I haven’t posted for several weeks. I’ve taken a brief hiatus for two reasons; 1) We’ve had a lot of company keeping me/us busy.
2) We’ve been swamped trying to plan our upcoming seven-week trip to Korea and Japan with a brief stop in Russia.  Korea and Japan planning has taken way more time than we anticipated. We needed to book a lot of hotels, research Japan Rail Passes, and figure out how to best follow the cherry blossom route.  All of this has been challenging and time- consuming. We’ve right at the tail end of planning with just one hotel left to book.  I’m so excited to go back to Asia!

Having company has been awesome!  It’s been so much fun to show people around Zihuatanejo who have never been here. And its been nice to have repeat guests, too.   All of our guests have been gracious and easy.  If you visited us, you are welcome back anytime. Nobody ever comes to Zihuatanejo just once!  It’s impossible.

Here’s what I think makes an awesome house guest:

1.  Being willing to bring your hosts items from the United States. We really appreciated guests carrying a bottle of our favorite contact lens solution or bringing down other requested items from the U.S.  We miss things we can’t get here, so being willing to bring requested items earned serious brownie points.

2. Not complaining about the guest bedroom accommodations. Free lodging=no complaining 🙂

3. Being flexible and being open to experiencing varied cuisine. If you come to Mexico and you don’t dig taco stalls,  we would have booted you out. Our guests were great. They happily chowed down.

4.  Finally the most important rule of being a great guest. Clean up after yourself!  In my case, I’m a tiny bit uptight about our house. I don’t like dirty counter tops and I like clean common areas. Our guests were quite respectful and kept their stuff in their rooms.

My sister (from Michigan) arrives for a ten-day visit on Thursday along with my mom’s brother and his girlfriend. I think Andy and I may move to my mom’s at least for part of my sister’s stay so we can spend more time together. My uncle and his girlfriend are staying at a nearby hotel.

Decisions, decisions, decisions

Now it’s decision time. We’ve been in Zihuatanejo for five months with one month left to go on our six-month lease and we have to decide where to live next.

When we first envisioned this adventure, I think we both thought we might want to live in Zihuatanejo year-round. Now, after living here for five months, we’ve decided against it. Zihuatanejo is just too small for us. While we’re not bored, we’re not exactly living a thrilling existence.  I feel like the walls are closing in around me. Andy doesn’t quite feel the same way, but he doesn’t want to live here in the summer either. We both agree it’s way too hot after  being here in May and June of last year, and we think six months is just too much time here. We’d prefer a shorter stay, so we will talk to our landlords about this soon. We love this house and really do want to return to it, but not for as long.

I’m not exactly sure how our adventure morphed into moving around, but I’m very happy it did. We are going to be serious nomads for the next eight months and I’m looking forward to many new, fun adventures.

Here’s the tentative plan, with room aplenty for changes.

March- Return to the Bay Area for three days at the end of March.  I need to see my oncologist, visit my dentist, and do a bit of clothing shopping.
April- We will spend the first week of April in Seoul, Korea,  Then we will be fly from Seoul to Japan. We’ll be in Japan all of April until May 8th.
May- On May 8th we will board  a two-week repositioning cruise (Celebrity) that sails from Yokohama, Japan to Vancouver, Canada.  There are two ports of call in Japan and one port of call in Siberia, Russia. Towards the end of May we will stay in Vancouver with friends for three days and then go to Astoria to see Andy’s sister, and perhaps our friends in Portland.
June-September-Morelia, Mexico.  We have already rented a three-bedroom apartment of an ex-pat. The apartment is in the central historico and we are very excited.
October- Oaxaca, Mexico. We hope to be there for Day of the Dead this year.
November- Chiapas, Mexico
December-March- Return to Zihuatanejo????

When we first conceived of this adventure,  we didn’t envision we would be traveling around so much, but now I actually prefer it and I’m engerized thinking about it. There is a lot of Mexico we want to see. The country is fascinating and I think we’ve only seen a very small percentage of it. Andy concurs.

While living like a nomad is going to be cool,  I’m still trying to decide how much of a minimalist I can be. It’s a real challange for me because I like my stuff!  I’ve been watching a plethora of interesting internet videos from mostly 20 somethings who travel around the world with nothing but a backpack on their backs. They don’t even bother with toothpaste. It takes up too much room. They use toothpower instead!   I blogged about my downsizing several months ago. Now it’s time for me to downsize again.  But can I do it?

I don’t want to bore you with logistical details of how we plan to pack for our seven-week Asian adventure, and our time away from Zihuatanejo, but one challenge we are facing is how to pack for Japan and Korea while at the same time packing for a two-week cruise. We want to backpack throughout Japan and Korea with very minimal clothing since we are going to be moving around so much. Plus Japan hotel rooms are TINY.  They will barely fit us, nevermind a ton of suitcases.

Of course, I could choose to wear the same clothes for both Japan and Korea and on the cruise, but this really isn’t me!  I want to dress up at night. Half the fun of going on a cruise is wearing fancy clothes you don’t normally get to wear!  So Andy came up wtih a great plan.

Ship Shape

The tentative plan is to bring an extra suitcase of cruisewear and warm clothes (for Russia) with us to Japan and then mail said suitcase to our final hotel in Japan. The hotel said they would hold our luggage for up to 30 days. We will bring that suitcase aboard the ship and we should be set. Then after the cruise, we will make our way back to San Francisco to drop off our warm clothes and cruisewear and then fly back to Mexico. The minimalist videos I have been watching have helped me understand how my travel adventures will greatly be enhanced if I can manage to bring less stuff, and I’ve invested heavily in packing cubes (thanks to my friend Kara) to organize and compact my stuff.  I have a plan,  I have the right attitude, now I just need to get rid of my natural desire to overpack and wean myself off of my serious dress and skirt obsession.

We’re still not sure how much stuff we’ll have to store in Zihuatanejo (or where we will store it) until we return in December, but we’re working on that next. As you can see, all of this has greatly taken up my time and has prevented me from blogging.  These are fun problems to have!

What do you want to know?

I’ve decided to write my next blog post on things you might want to know about living abroad. So please email or post ANY and ALL questions you might have. I’ll pick out some and answer them in my next blog.

Peace out!


Cancer-The great instigator

Me being diagnosed with advanced state ovarian cancer in May 2015 was a life-changing event. Dare I say even a blessing????  Well, maybe blessing is the wrong word, but my cancer diagnosis and three words from my oncologist to ‘live life now” changed everything for us.

Cancer was the great instigator. Should I say thanks?

Every since Andy and I got married 20 years ago, we’ve always talked about moving abroad for our retirement. We knew we could successfully live abroad because we did it in our early 30’s as Peace Corp volunteers in Jamaica and we were jonesing for a repeat performances. We talked about moving abroad at least once a week during our entire marriage, so the thought of not being able to do it was simply terrifying to us both.

We jumped and we haven’t looked back.

Now we are a bit over the half-way mark in our six-month stay in Zihuatanejo, Mexico. In May, we will have lived in Mexico for a year and we continue to love the scenery, people and culture. Now it’s time to make some major decisions about what comes next!

Here’s where the wind will take us in the next few months.

First, the first week of February we have been invited to San Miguel de Allende to attend the 50th birthday party of a close friend. She’s asked 10 of her besties to join her. All are coming from the San Francisco Bay Area and Los Angeles to participate in four days of festivities.


The house we are staying at is two blocks off the main square

San Miguel de Allende is about 8 hours away from Zihuataenjo and we’re going to be traveling for the first time by first class bus. First class buses in Mexico are supposed to be very nice. They have bathrooms, seat chargers and they show movies. After the party, my friend, and the birthday girl, (Shannon) will bus with us back to Zihuataenjo and stay for a few nights but first we’ll stop in Morelia for a night of big city living. We will once again stay at my favorite Mexican hotel, the Hotel Soledad.

Then, visitors a-plenty start arriving from the middle of February through the middle of March pretty much non-stop. I’m looking forward to the company. Unfortunately, there’s NO MORE room at the inn for this remaining winter season. We’re completely booked. Sorry peeps.

At the end of March we’re being kicked out of this great country. Our 180 day tourist visas expire at the end of March. Mexican law requires that we flee–anyplace is fine as long as it’s out of Mexico for at least 24 hours. Then we can come back for another 180 days.

Asia here we come!  We’re off to Korea and Japan for some new adventures.

Hello Cherry Blossoms

I’ve always loved cherry blossoms. Whenever I see them a complete feeling of peace envelops me. Since we have to leave Mexico, we decided to take a seven-week trip to Korea and Japan in the spring to become cherry blossom groupies. I’ve been to Japan twice for work, but never with Andy. I really love all of Asia, but I’m particularly fond of Japan and I’m excited for us to travel throughout Japan together. I’m also excited to take my first trip to Korea.


Being a cherry blossom groupie isn’t as easy as it sounds.  When we first booked our tickets to Asia, we didn’t quite understand that cherry blossom season is short. The trees have a very short viewing period and variations in temperature can affect when they bloom from year to year. The Korean and Japanese governments both provide excellent guidelines to help tourists follow their foliage, but it’s all based on speculation until the season draws closer. Another drawback…hundreds of thousands of people want to see them, so it’s hard getting hotel rooms in many cities. And if there are hotel rooms available, they cost over $150 a night for a budget property. Nicer hotels are running closer to $200 a night. That’s a bit steep for our budget, especially when we are used to paying $50 a night for fancy hotels in Mexico.

But we’re not daunted. We’re pushing on. We’re mostly planning our trip to geographically follow their sproutage, but we may be SOL depending on the weather. Already I know that while in Tokyo we’ll probably miss them by a few weeks. In many of the other cities we plan to visit, we could be several days early or even up to a week late, or we could hit the cherished “full bloom” state as I anticipate we will while visiting Kyoto. Thankfully, we were lucky enough to get lodging at a very huge and famous Spring cherry blossom festival in Takayama and I’m sure this will be one of our highlights of our trip, especially our stay there in a youth hostel!

To fund this amazing adventure, we’re mostly using hotel and airline points. In our former professional lives, we  both traveled extensively for work. Over the last 15 years or so we’ve become serious hotel and airline point hoarders. We’ve even sat through some very long and pressure -filled timeshare presentations just to earn extra  Starwood points. That’s dedication!  Now it’s time to reap the rewards and go on a point spending spree!

First we’ll stop in the Bay Area for 3 days to see my oncologist and to pick up some appropriate traveling clothes. I can’t go to Asia wearing nothing but sun dresses. I will look sorely out of place!

Then we’re flying business class to Seoul, Korea on Asiana airlines and then we’re going to be using hotel points to stay at a brand new Starwood property, an Aloft. Alofts are cool. We like the brand and stay at them often.  Then from Korea we will fly to Japan.

Over the course of one month,  we’ll stay in many different places including an airbnb in Kyoto. Supposedly the bathroom/shower is so small that Andy will have to crouch down to shower!  When we can, we’ll stay in a youth hostel or two, with a smattering of luxury Sheraton and Westin properties thrown in so we can cash in points. I like the approach of staying at both low-end and higher end properties when traveling. It makes for many fun adventures. I’m also lobbying for us to stay a few nights at the St. Regis in Osaka (on points) where every room has private butler service!  After traveling around Japan for a month, we’re going to board a Celebrity repositioning cruise on the Celebrity Millenium outside of Tokyo and take a 14-day cruise from Japan to Vancouver. If you are not familiar with repoisitioning cruises, they are dirt cheap. They are cheap because they have tons of sea days, as opposed to port visits and they need people to fill up the ships as they transition to another season. In our ships case, it had been cruising throughout Asia, but come the end of May it will start its spring and summer season in Alaska. Along the way we will visit Sapporo and Hagadote, Japan and one port in Russia called Petropavlovsk.  I’m super excited about the cruise because it was much, much cheaper than flying home and way more fun!  We’ve booked a basic interior cabin but don’t expect to spend much time in it. We’ll spend long sea days playing cards, reading and watching movies. Paradise. After we disembark in Vancouver, Canada we will stay with close friends for 3 or 4 days.

After Vancouver we will fly straight to Morelia, (the greatest city you have never heard of) to begin a four month stay.  Book your reservations now. We already have a lot of people who have expressed an interest in coming to visit.  After Morelia, we want to spend the month of October in Oaxaca. Then, who knows where the wind will take us? We’re strongly considering returning to Zihuatanenjo, and we are going to make a final decision soon.  Life is just a little bit slow-paced here for me. While I do love it, it doesn’t have any of the big city life I crave. But after four months in big city Morelia, I may be ready to return to paradise. We’ll have a better idea of our plans in a few more weeks. Until then, we are in full Asia planning mode.  Have you ever used Tripit to organize a trip?  If not, check it out. I’m finding it to be a fantastic planning  tool.

Misc Musings:

1. I had a wonderful time with my dad who came here for 9 days. He was a really easy guest and we did a lot of fun stuff including visiting Ixtapa Island.

2. Last night we ran out of propane gas and today the gas man came with his huge truck and refilled it. Total cost $107.00.

3. Having no gas means having no hot water. When the gas tank was filled, the stove and oven started working again, but the hot water did not. Andy could not light the pilot light try as he might. Andy sent our landlords a message about two hours ago via email and they are already here trying to fix it.  They are so amazing and helpful. And the adventure continues!


Old West-style shootout

A few nights ago, captain Andy and I were chilling around 11:15 p.m., Andy in the living room watching TV and me in the bedroom reading. Suddenly I heard some very strange sounds. Andy came in the bedroom and said, “Did you hear that? I’m pretty sure it was gunfire.” It was a bit off in the distance, but it sounded like a shootout in the Wild West. Over the course of about 10 minutes, it sounded as if 100 or maybe even more than 200 rounds had been fired, by machine guns. Late in the sequence, we heard one short barrage of gunfire from what sounded like the street behind our backyard.

I was shocked. I was scared. This was the first time we had ever heard gunfire in our safe neighborhood in Zihuatanejo, Mexico. We’re still not fully sure what happened, but from the local news reports we’ve read, it appears as if cartel (ie. gang) members in two cars, after being spotted driving oddly by law enforcement officials, started to trade gunfire with said law enforcement officials — a confusing web of municipal police, state police, federal police and military, all of whom constantly drive around town in military-type Jeep vehicles, some with a mounted machine gun at the ready.

Perhaps the badmen engaged the police; perhaps it was the other way around. We’re not really not sure. But after the shootout, three men were reported dead with four wounded, including a policeman who sustained minor injuries.

I’m upset. I’m perplexed. I’m sad. I’m speechless. What I am not is worried for our overall safety. As it turned out, even though it sounded close at times, the shootout happened a mile from our house in an area where we would not be late at night. It’s not in a bad neighborhood; just a place we wouldn’t be. Still, no matter where it occurred, the shootout was a sad commentary on the state of life in contemporary Mexico, where cartels have too much influence, and politicians have either too little (or are controlled by cartels or corrupted by other influences).

I pray for people’s safety and security. I pray that an increased police and military presence around town keeps Mexicans and tourists safe. I pray that those of you who want to come visit us still want to come, because I remain positive that we and you will be safe. I pray that those of you who are new to Mexico learn to love it as much as we do and that you get to experience true Mexican hospitality and a nation’s zest for living.